Tuesday, January 24, 2012

Training Day - Part #1: The Big American Breakfast

Our first day on the job at the B&B began the very day after our arrival. It was a training day. Laura, Greg's wife and partner in the B&B, still hadn't returned from working with their boat in the Caribbean but Karen, the intermittent Innkeeper, was there to show us the ropes.

BREAKFAST:

Breakfast prep started at 7am. That wasn't too bad, I had been expecting worse. We did set our alarms for 6am just to make sure we were on time - though it's not like we had to factor in commute time!

The Inn styles itself as a Luxury B&B and in keeping with that they serve a full gourmet breakfast. For them, that usually means four areas need to be covered: there must be an egg, there must be a meat, there must be a bread and there must be a potato. Phew! But before all that, first they serve a fruit plate which we plate up and have ready on the table as a kind of place marker. I really like this idea, and the fruit plates look very smart and delicious.

Immediately I felt a little out of my league. I would have to learn and perfect the Great American Breakfast. For starters, potatoes for breakfast are a VERY new concept for me. I couldn't imagine eating potatoes for breakfast. Then again, Americans would NEVER imagine eating baked beans for breakfast as us Aussie's do. Also for me, breakfast is about grains - and nowhere on that list do they mention a grain. There were also no particularly healthy options, except the fruit plate. But on my outings to Cracker Barrel, a old-style southern eatery, it all seemed pretty customary.


I don't know about how other people in Australia go about their breakfast but in our family, big breakfasts like this were only made on the weekends. What do Australians usually eat? As far as I know, cereal (including the traditional Weetbix) and toast (yes, with vegemite!) generally. The big Australian breakfast consists of eggs and bacon (for Americans, that's more like a Canadian bacon with more meat than fat) or grilled sausages, as well as grilled mushrooms and tomatoes and, of course, baked beans. In Australia it is becoming more common to go out for breakfast, though in America with the multitude of breakfast institutions, such as IHOP, Denny's and the aforementioned Cracker Barrel it's habitual. But it's not just for eating out, the Big American Breakfast, it seems this is pretty much the norm EVERY DAY in most households. I know Chase's dad cooks scrambled eggs and sausages and sometimes even biscuits (scones) for breakfast every day. I'm amazed.


So anyway, while Chase and Greg were organising the fruit plates, Karen and I got started on the potatoes and the eggs. Today we were scrambling the eggs, and "hashing" the potatoes - not quite the patties you see at McDonalds, but instead we diced the potatoes irregularly, skin on after pre-cooking them in the microwave, and added some diced onion before frying it all up in a pan. They'll most likely become mushy but that's part of the "hash". As you may have guessed, Hash is a very vague concept, it's whatever you prefer really. It's traditionally a "leftovers" dish, not unlike Australia's Bubble and Squeak, Sweden's Pytti Panna or, as I understand, Austria's Bauernfrühstück. It seems every country has one. Quite delicious of course - but not for breakfast! Especially accompanied by tomato sauce.

Back in the kitchen, the sausages were taking care of themselves in the pan. Here's another variant in American breakfast: sweet sausages, and in this case, maple flavoured sausages. Americans love their "salty sweet" combination of flavours. Me, I'm not into it at all; I don't mix my sweet and savoury. I have read that that this combination is an important component to cooking; that's what makes Asian cooking so phenomenal, but it's subtle.

I think we did English muffins that day. Ok, I forget as I'm writing this behind schedule (what's new?) but who really cares? Any bread is pretty fine by me, I love it! Especially when it's pre-buttered and toasted in the grill (American's say "broil", I don't like it, that word makes me think of poaching and sounds gross!)! Real bread in America is lacking, like Australia, but the variants on bread, like English muffins, biscuits, cinnamon rolls and bagels, make up for it.

Coffee: Americans love it - but by "coffee", I mean purely filtered coffee. It's probably a better way than the way we do our instant dried coffee in Australia, but unless it's made strong, for me it's not very good. The B&B's coffee is not too bad, and first thing in the morning, it's even better! A key morning objective for us is to keep that coffee jug filled and keep the coffee flowing! That term "bottomless cup" is not just a catchy tagline.


Guests are offered breakfast between 8-8:30am. A pretty short window really but with so many guest rooms it's kind of imperative otherwise you'd be rushed off your feet for hours. As it is, we didn't get finished with breakfast until 9:30 (well, we did stop to eat; a great perk of the job - eating the leftovers! And by then, don't you know I was ravished! Those maple sausages didn't even taste that bad!).

The breakfast room is in the vestibule before you come in the main door. I really like this area for breakfast with all the morning light and the view of the mountains coming through all the big windows. This part of the house is quite new, it was only completed about a year ago. Before that it was just a small portico. Of course, in winter it's a little harder to keep warm but so far it's manageable with a few space heaters.


While I was comparing breakfasts I found a great page on breakfast around the world, with matching photos. If, you're interested, click on this link below (I'm liking the look of the Morrocan breakfast...):

Saturday, January 21, 2012

Dreaming of a White Christmas

Ok, this is belated, but I have had it drafted since Christmas, and even though I'm not up to date yet I thought I'd better throw it in before the year gets away on me!

I was anxious for a white Christmas being in the mountains and all this year, but unfortunately the weather had other ideas. And it's had other ideas starting about 2 weeks after we arrived here. Yep, Winter Park is still not producing the goods.

There is snow on the ground - so it technically could be considered a white Christmas - but we are still awaiting the season's deluge of white stuff. It's all anyone's talking about up here. I've heard about how we should be swimming in it by now, how you shouldn't be able to see anything but white, white, and more white. Last year they had an incredible season of snow. Of course, the season I arrive here it goes all out of wack; not only is there no snow, it's unusually windy! It's not good for the B&B and it's not good for the town, which relies on the snow to bring in business.

But Chase and I got ourselves the best Christmas present we could ask for - 3 full days with no guests so we were very happy. The last two weeks had been crazily busy and since the owner's were away we hadn't had any time off.

We had a lovely quiet Christmas day and that night we had one of our similarly orphaned friends, Dan, over for dinner. He's a great guy who Chase met when he used to live here years ago. They worked on trail crew together. They both left Winter Park about the same time and its just coincidence that they're both back here again this time. Dan works at the Ski Resort for NSCD (National Sports Centre for the Disabled) and is a really big out-doors enthusiast, he's even hiked the John Muir Trail, a massive 211 mile (340km) trail in the Sierra Nevada Mountains of California!

Derrick & Patricia middle, back; Dan and Amy right, front
Check out this Colorado
craft beer - almost makes me
wish I drank beer!
The next night some more friends came for a belated Christmas dinner. Patricia and Derrick Taff are originally from Alabama (Derrick is also from Chase's town, though they became friends when they worked on trail crew together as well, so Dan, Derrick and Chase all know each other). I first met them when Chase and I lived in Atlanta in 2006, they came to visit us and we all got along very well. We also visited them where they lived in Tuscaloosa, Alabama after our road trip in America in 2008. At that time they were having their going away party because they were moving to Colorado. Now they live in Fort Collins (an apparently really cool university town an hour north of Denver) and both work for the university (Derrick is getting his Doctorate in outdoor recreation too - nice). We'll definitely be visiting them in Fort Collins sometime this year and I can't wait to see this cool town. Along with Derrick and Patricia, Dan came again for a second helping and brought his sister Amy who had just arrived for a visit. So it was a very merry gathering, with the boys reliving their old Winter Park days (I'm glad I wasn't there then!). 


Chase made the delicious ham and roast vegetables again that he made at Thanksgiving plus a home-made mac and cheese. I made a mega salad and cauliflower with cheese sauce, Derrick and Patricia brought dessert - home-made pecan pie and both sets of friends brought tonnes of wine and beer.
Our great Xmas gift from
Derreck & Patricia

Of course, we were all stuffed afterwards.

It's been pretty fun being in Winter Park for the Christmas season even though it hasn't been snowing much. I enjoyed seeing people driving home with real Christmas trees on their roofs (aka. The Griswolds!), and the carols playing actually mean something here. We were walking home from the coffee shop one day and we went via the park (Hideaway Park), there was carols playing over a loud speaker and there's a nice big gentle slope where a bunch of parents were at watching their kids sled down. With the background music, the snow covered park, and the children sledding, I really felt like I was in a Christmas movie!

 

There was the annual lighting of the Christmas tree a few weeks back and on Christmas Eve they had the annual Christmas Eve Torchlight Parade at Winter Park Resort. We were wusses and didn't go to either - it's too cold! The torchlight parade would've been fun to see but Chase and I were looking forward to our first night in a while in a quiet, people-free B&B. The Winter Park Resort employees (including Dan) ski down with lights in the form of a Christmas tree, then Santa Claus ski's down.

From the Winter Park Resort Website:

The event begins with Christmas carols around the bonfire at the base of the Resort then a procession of torch-bearing skiers and riders (employees of the resort) begin their way down Lower Hughes trail, followed by Santa Claus and his merry helpers. A spectacular fireworks display and snowcats adorned with Christmas colors light up the slopes in a Christmas tree formation to conclude the festivities. Immediately following the show at 6pm, visitors are welcome to attend Christmas Eve interdenominational services and Catholic Church services.
I've included a video from you tube but don't you think the long-exposure photo is most impressive?



[ It's long but if you pause and let it all load you can skip ahead to get the effect]

Friday, January 20, 2012

Welcome to the Wild West - Pt 3: There's gold in them thar hills

It took until 1851 for the first permanent settlement of non-Indian origin to be founded in Colorado, at a place called Conejos in the San Luis Valley in south central Colorado, though it was inhabited by a group of Hispanic families. But by the time Colorado became a territory of the United States in 1861 the population came to 25,371. By the time it became a state of the Union its population had sprung to more than 100,000!

What stimulated this population explosion was the fact that there was gold in them thar hills, and what became of it was the biggest gold rush in American history.

Famous picture of a prospector panning for gold.
Source
 Pikes Peak or Bust:

Approximately a decade after the famous gold rush in California, the rush began in Colorado. Gold was first discovered in Colorado in 1858 but it was a false start, producing nothing significant. It wasn't until 1859 that the first major strike was had by George Jackson in a creek in a canyon of the Rockies Front Range at what is now called Idaho Springs, just outside of present day Denver. Then another, more substantial find was subsequently made in a stream not far north from here in a place that came to be called Central City. The rush was now on.

These new strikes brought renewed belief in the existence of gold riches in these mountains. People that had moved on came back while new prospectors came in thousands and the days of the Wild West legend were now about to make their mark.

The first decade of the boom was largely concentrated in this region and within a year some $18 million in gold was extracted. Pikes Peak, the mountain from the Zebulon Pike discovery became famous as a landmark for gold-seekers which guided them to the area much like the bright star guided the wise men to Jesus. The term "Pikes peak or bust" became the motto of gold seekers.
It is estimated that more than 200,000 wagons rolled across the prairies of Kansas and Nebraska in 1859 and 1860, many of them carrying a sign with the now famous phrase “Pikes Peak or Bust.” [1]

Pike's Peak Miners. Wikipedia.org
The influx of these fortune-seekers provided the first major white population in the region which helped create many early towns as well as the formation of Colorado Territory itelf. More gold brought more boom towns, but these early shanty towns were bawdy, rough places dominated by the hardiest of men. Tent stores, and log saloons sprang up along the muddy streets of raw new towns, as well as gambling parlours, and brothels for entertainment (scenes from the old movie Paint Your Wagon come to mind).
Central City boomed quickly; by 1860, it had a population of 60,000 people and was at the centre of what became known as "The Richest Square Mile on Earth". However placer deposits were quickly exhausted and replaced by corporate underground mining operations, but these operations kept the town prospering for some time and for a while it rivalled Denver, an up-and-coming city, itself.
Many colourful personalities of Colorado lived there, including Horace and Baby Doe Tabor, Doc Holliday (more on these people below), and "Unsinkable" Molly Brown. The Opera House attracted international performers like the Barnum & Bailey Circus, Oscar Wilde, Buffalo Bill, and Harry Houdini. [2]

Miners drinking in a Colorado saloon, 19th Century. Source
Denver grew almost overnight, not from any gold discoveries but from it's strategic location at the juncture of the south Platte River and Cherry Creek, which fashioned it into major supply centre. It all started when a man picked a track on the east side of Cherry Creek, and marked its centre with cottonwood sticks on November 22, 1858; this was how claims were made on a piece of land, indicating the start of a building. It's economy grew by servicing local miners with gambling, saloons, livestock and goods trading. It's where people started and ended their journey into the mountains, and where they came for respite and gamblers, prostitutes and saloonkeepers took up residence here in order to "mine" the miners.

Colorado's lively camp scenes were described by Horace Greeley of the New York Tribune. He travelled the region and wrote of the frenzy he saw in the 1859 goldfields. Of the fledgling "log city" of 150 dwellings at Cherry Creek/Denver he mused that there were "more brawls, more fights, more pistol shots with criminal intent" than any place of comparable size. (Insight guide: Colorado).

Other towns sprang up with gold finds, these included Golden, Gold Hill, Fairplay, Colorado City and Boulder. But of all the mining camps in Colorado, the towns of Creede, Tin Cup, and Leadville were the most wild and unruly.

Creede, late 1800s. Source
Creede: For a brief few years Creede was one of the most notorious of the Colorado mining settlements. Initially built in the narrow confines of East Willow Creek Canyon, a tributary of the Rio Grande river in the south-west of the state, the town eventually spilled out of the gulf into the broad plain west of town when almost overnight, the new town grew to 10,000 residents.

A miner named Nicholas Creede discovered a high-grade silver vein here. He supposedly exclaimed "Holy Moses!" and the Holy Moses mine was created and became one of the most profitable holdings in the region. Hastily constructed shacks were built and silver fever was so high that people worked night and day. A famous poem by Cy Warman in 1892 observed "It's day all day in the day time, And there is no night in Creede." A line from the local paper also lamented that “Creede is unfortunate in getting more of the flotsam of the state than usually falls to the lot of a mining camp,” with the likes of Bob Ford, killer of Jesse James, controlling much of the gambling, and Soapy Smith, running an extortion racket out of his Orleans Club.

Soapy Smith at his saloon in Skagway, Alaska 1898, not long before he was killed.
Source
Tin Cup: In 1816, Jim Taylor found gold in his tin cup as he was taking a drink of water from a stream, but not until 1870 was high grade gold and silver found. The town quickly grew into Virginia City but in 1882, the name was changed to Tin Cup in honour of its discoverer. Gambling was big business, like in all these towns, but the gamblers of Tin Cup controlled the town's 6,000 residents.
They hired their first marshall and told him, "see nothing, hear nothing, do nothing, and the first arrest you make will be your last". (Colorado little pocket guide).
Let's just say they went through a number of sheriffs and the cemetery is testimony to that. Unbelievably, the name has stuck, and you can still find Tin Cup on the map today, though a now just a mere dot.

Leadville, 1879. Source
Leadville: has a great boom and bust rollercoaster history. Nicknamed "Cloud City" at 10,430 feet it is located in the heart of the Rockies at the foot of two of Colorado's highest mountains. It had a fitful start during the early gold rush of 1859 and it wasn't until 1874 that major deposits of gold and silver were discovered. Leadville's population exploded from 1200 to 40,000 almost overnight. It became the second largest town in the state and the silver yield alone was worth hundreds of millions of dollars.

It deflated almost just as quickly when silver prices collapsed in 1893. But during its era of prosperity, violence and fortune seemed to be mutually exclusive. There were a number of mining swindles, and at one point, Leadville had a bordello for every 148 inhabitants. The local newspaper observed at the time: "Leadville never sleeps. The theatres close at three in the morning. The dance houses and liquoring shops are never shut..." 

The Matchless Mine today. Source
Horace Tabor was a famous Leadville resident, and is a symbol of the state Colorado was in at that time. Good luck brought him a fortune and he divorced his wife and took up with a divorcee half his age nicknamed "Baby Doe". He purchased the Matchless Mine in 1879 which brought him further riches before moving to Central City. However he lost everything in the crash of 1893 and by the time of his death six years later his wife and family were living in poverty.

Doc Holliday got around these parts too, shortly after the gun fight at the O.K. Corral he showed up in Leadville and immortalising himself in its history when in 1884 he shot and wounded a man, the last man on record he ever shot.

The Last Hoorah:

The easy-to-reach gold deposits were largely played out by 1863; over 1.25 million troy ounces (39 t) of gold were produced in those years. The ore deposits of Colorado were complex and required smelting processes that weren't available in the early days of the Colorado gold rush. The result was that mining in many districts waned throughout the 1860's and early 1870's, and many disillusioned miners returned to their homes back East.

Cripple Creek: Just when it was thought the great gold rush of Colorado was behind them, in 1891  a significant gold discovery in a basin, ironically, near Pike's Peak, started the last of the great Colorado mining stampedes. By 1894, there were four newspapers and even a stock market to match remote investors with local mining interests. But it was not devoid of proplems: there were two fires within a week of each other in 1896 and was also the site of some of the worst labour conflicts in American history, culminating in the state militia being called in to break a strike in 1903.

Crowds gathered around the National Guard outside the Mining Exchange building during the Miner's Strike, Sept. 1903
Like most mining boom towns, Cripple Creeks mining days were over by World War Two. Gold ore and many other minerals continue to be produced up to the present day in Colorado, although gold has been a minor part of the picture for decades. Since the mid 1990's open pit mining has been swallowing up the numerous historic mines that cover the hills around town and when gambling was legalized in 1991, places like Central City, Blackhawk and Cripple Creek, former shells of themselves, were reborn as tourist centres.

Monday, January 9, 2012

Welcome to the Wild West - Part#2: Before Colorado became Colorado

Colorado has a fascinating cultural heritage; a confluence of Native American, Spanish, French and ultimately US influence. The Native Americans inhabited the region for more than 13 millennia before the first Spanish explorers arrived. The Ancient Pueblo Peoples built settlements right into the rock of the valleys and mesas of the Colorado Plateau, the Ute Indians inhabited the mountain valleys of the Southern Rocky Mountains and the Western Rocky Mountains, and the Arapaho people and the Cheyenne people moved west to hunt across the High Plains.

Mesa Verde: ancient Pueblo settlement in southern Colorado
Picture: Wikipedia.org
[Insight Guides: Colorado]
"Spaniards and other strangers barged right in, reconfiguring the social landscape and rewriting a whole region's history."
As far as modern history goes, Colorado's is quite short. While the Spanish were the first foreigners to traverse the area, it was the French who first claimed the region east of the Rockies in 1682 as part of the Louisiana Territory. The Indians lived in relative harmony with the French who hunted and traded fur with the natives, but overall, their influence was minimal. Fearing a French advancement, the Spanish claimed the western portion of the region in 1706. They never established permanent settlements here but Spanish explorers broke a lot of ground and coined a number of place names, including that of "Colorado," which is a term to describe the red earth they beheld. They also introduced horses to buffalo hunters on the plains which revolutionised the enterprise.
 

Formal boundaries were never demarcated between the lands of French Louisiana and Spanish New Mexico since the areas only real inhabitants were "mountain men": the fur traders and trappers that roamed the countryside. Fur was big business at the time, and it was the trade which played a major role in opening up the American West.

Eventually, France sold their portion of the land to America in the Louisiana Purchase in 1803, yet eastern Colorado still remained a wilderness for the next few decades. Legends were made of the American traders and scouts such as Charles and William Bent, Kit Carson, Jim Baker and Jim Bridger who ventured into the still largely uncharted territory and inhospitable land, establishing trading posts and building friendly relations with the Indians.

Trading posts were established to exchange goods and gather supplies in central locations, as well as provide protection from Indian attacks. Many Colorado towns were created as a result of these trading posts. The first trading-post was established at the mouth of Clear Creek, a tributary of the South Platter River, near present day Denver in 1832, by Louis Vasquez, and named Fort Vasquez, after its proprietor, but never grew into much importance and was soon abandoned. The most famous is Bent's Fort built by the Bent brothers in south-east Colorado near present day La Junta and now a National Historic Site and Landmark.

America's western frontier grew by more than 500,000 square miles when the U.S. won the Mexican-American War in 1848 (Mexico having gained its independence from Spain in 1821). As the victor, the U.S. was ceded territory extending west from the Rio Grande River (which originates in southwest Colorado) to the Pacific Ocean. Americans were now free to settle the southern Rocky Mountain region and American explorers began surveying the area.   

The first American to formally explore the Colorado area was Lt. Zebulon M. Pike in 1806, who was commissioned to document the southern portion of the Louisiana Purchase and to find the headwaters of the Red River. With a party of 22 men he pushed into the mountains west of Pueblo and Colorado Springs and amongst other things discovered what would later be called Pikes Peak, although he did not manage to make the summit.  The next major expedition was by an Army force commanded by Major Stephen H. Long in 1820. His mission was to explore the southwest boundary of the territory and his report basically wrote off the plains as a "Great American Dessert" unfit for exploration. In 1853, Captain John W. Gunnison led an exploring party across southern and western Colorado territory searching for a railroad route westward through the Colorado Rockies before being slain in Utah in an Indian attack.

John Charles Fremont, an American military officer, explorer and politician played a major role in bringing the west to the nation's attention. His flamboyant personality and lively reports stimulated public interest in the American West but also managed to offend a few people. His reports countered a kind of badlands view of Colorado that had taken hold in the public imagination from the early explorers and the the stories of frontiersmen. It was also Fremont's memoirs that served to fix Kit Carson's place as an American Legend.

He's efforts in Colorado are largely forgotten as his two expeditions were never completed and considered failures. His fourth expedition, his first in Colorado, was to find a railroad route through the Rockies and demonstrate that a 38th parallel railroad would be practical year-round. However this expedition took a fearful toll in human life when he and his men became snowbound. His fifth and final expedition was also in Colorado and retraced some steps from Gunnison's expedition through the Gunnison River country and San Luis Valley. He travelled across Kansas, southern Colorado and Utah in search of another railroad route over the Central Rockies. The trip remained inconclusive when the group reached, and was saved by, a Mormon settlement in Utah. But his other accomplishments throughout the west, his lively egotistic nature and his drastic swings from poverty to wealth and back to poverty again make him one of the best known explorers of the 19th Century.

When the Fur Trade collapsed in the late 1830s, trading posts were generally abandoned while some became military forts along isolated frontier settlements and trading routes as relations with the native Indians were growing ever more hostile. It seemed that this land was about to fade into oblivion, and remain a wild wilderness only for the fearless. But some significant events were about to take place that would advance Colorado into the 38th State and accelerate its quick development.